Sometimes You Are The Rock

"Sometimes you're the person on the journey, sometimes you’re the rock beneath their feet. A solid place where they can stop, put down their pack and recover, and then… a place to plant their foot and spring forward into their journey." - SlimeDog

This season I had planned to offer trail magic in at least ten different locations along the Oregon section of the PCT. SlimeDog was planning to join me on some of the day trips. (That man can carry a lot of apples!) 

Everyone knows things didn't turn out as planned, but sometimes it's good to shift your plans. It challenges you to explore, learn, grow. 

It also allows you to be available when someone needs help. That's what happened last Friday morning when MukMuk called from Jefferson Park somewhere near mile 2038. A hiker she has become close with (UB) had been sick for several days and now was dehydrated and extremely weak. 

She wasn't sure if they should continue North or South to find a place to hitch out to get medical help. A quick review of HalfMile's section map and the Jefferson Park map revealed they were less than five (5) miles from a trailhead SlimeDog and I could reach in less than three hours. 

 

The PCT is trail 2000, the Pamelia Lake Trail connects at mile 2035. The TH and road are just 2.5 miles away.

After an update on the road and trailhead conditions from ranger Jerry Johnson at the Willamette National Forest ranger station, we confirmed Muk and her fella should head to the Pamelia Lake trailhead. 

When we got there we took a quick trailhead picture, loaded gear and people, and headed to Portland to an Urgent Care.

After getting her fella checked out and patched up, we brought them to our house for a few zeros (zero = day off trail) to allow them to rest, shower, do laundry, resupply and recuperate.

When the time approached to return them to the trail, they decided Muk would move on and her fella would return to Urgent Care for another assessment of his situation.

While I did my midday stretches, Muk got herself situated to head back out.

I always have a scrap or two of Tyvek in my car. On that day, it was the perfect yoga mat. 

We took a few goofy pictures at the trailhead to basically stall Muk's return. 

And then she was off again ...

I have to admit it was a bit difficult to drop Muk off at the trailhead without her fella, but I knew she'd be fine. Her fella on the other hand received news that ultimately would force him off trail and onto a plane home a few days later. 

We wish them both well on their journeys on, and off, trail. If you'd like to follow along they both have blogs.

MukMuk aka Rozanne Pilbeam
http://mexicotocanada2013.wordpress.com/

UB aka Chris Foley 
http://ubserious.com/


For me the 2013 PCT Trail Angel season has finished ... the next blog post won't be until next spring when I hit the trail again fully recovered and strong. 

Thanks to UB for taking this great impromptu picture of SlimeDog and me. SlimeDog has been my rock during a stressful, longer than anticipated, recovery from my trail accident earlier this season. Gauge doggy and I both love this man!! 

Rollin' and Splashin' Along

After what appeared to be a great return to work, short hikes and walks, I suffered a significant setback during the second week of August that resulted in disabling pain.

What I thought was just pain from a fatigued ankle resulted in my entire lower right side seizing up and leaving me unable to walk. I was crawling around my house literally yelping in pain. I guess that's what I get for having such a high pain threshold and 'powering' through the stiffness and burning muscle pains.

After multiple doctor and PT visits, I believe and hope I am on the path to healing. So WTF was it? I have myofascial tightness that made my peroneus longus muscle, Iliotibial band, and piriformis muscle seize up tight and irritate my sciatic nerve. 

This appears to stem from the nerve pain and tightness in my ankle and six weeks of immobility/limited mobility in the walking boot. 

While I am frustrated by all of this, I can still find the humor in my situation. 

I bought my first bathing suit in fifteen years so I can do the Healing Waters and Fluid Moves water therapy classes offered at our local swim center. These modified classes are held in an 89 degree pool and offer one-on-one coaching for those with arthritis and/or sports injuries. 

I am paying someone to make me painful! I have been getting 90-minute myofascial release massages that focus on breaking up scar tissue and releasing tight muscles and tendons using deep tissue massage and pressure points. Holy crap! Ouch! After the first massage I still had my nerve pain, but my muscles were not like bricks anymore.

I also have some fascia release exercises and stretching exercises from the physical therapist. Check out the tools I have to use in releasing the myofascia! 

I have a love-hate-love relationship with the foam roller. The spoon serves as my inexpensive substitute for a Graston tool. 

I'll admit I've had a rough couple of weeks and been in the dumps feeling sorry for myself because I cannot do some of the simplest things that bring me pleasure. However, I am thankful for not having something more serious as well as for the kind words and actions of others. 

And, I am inspired by the blogs of the thru-hikers and section hikers I've been following this season on the PCT. So many of them have such incredible stories to share. 

My PCT time this year will be limited to supporting one or two people I already promised to help. If you are on the PCT this summer please be so kind as to provide some magic to any thru-hikers you can. 

One Step at a Time

Eight weeks ago today a section of trail gave way and I broke my fibula. Seven weeks ago Anish started her attempt to break the fasted unassisted PCT thru hike. We both share a love for the PCT, and we are both taking it one step at a time. I've been following her story since the beginning, and she is truly inspiring. 

For the past few weeks I have been working hard at getting back the strength I lost due to the injury.  My goal ... to be able to step back on the PCT and hike as a trail angel before the herd approaches. As Anish approached, I realized I might be ready to provide her with magic as she approached Ollalie Lake. 

As the day approached, a plan was developed. SlimeDog (my fella) would drive so I could save my energy for the trail, we would split the magic supply between us, SlimeDog would head out ahead of me on the trail with Gauge doggy, and I would head out a short time after that for a shorter hike. We would meet back at the Ollalie Lake Resort. 

When we got to the lake, I stopped in at the store to see if they had seen Anish yet. Nope. They were hoping she would come through, but they couldn't be sure she would. Anish averaged 43 miles a day through California, and we knew she was doing 50+ miles a day in Oregon. 

Not knowing if we had missed her, we got into action with our packs and headed out. SlimeDog and Gauge were long gone in a few minutes. 

For me the process was slower. I was suddenly emotional. This would be my first time back on a real trail since the accident, this would be my first trail with rocks and off-camber foot placements, and it would be my first time shouldering a fully-loaded trail angel pack.

As I headed out, I repeated over and over again to myself to take it one step at a time. While the trail tread was challenging, I soon relaxed as I became certain I could handle it. 

The trail was fatiguing, but the views as the trail climbed were rewarding. 

     Mt Jefferson just beyond Ollalie Butte 

At about the 45-minute / 1.65 mile mark I chose to go ahead and turn back. My longest hike so far had been 3.5 miles on pavement and/or gentle trail with no real elevation gain. With my return to work just a few days away, overdoing it was not an option. 

When I returned to the trailhead I relaxed and ate a snack, convinced Anish, SlimeDog and Gauge would be just behind me. After 30-minutes at the trailhead I hiked over to the store. The store crew is very friendly and encouraged me to just relax on the porch and enjoy the view. 

    What a great view from the porch

I wasn't there long before I was joined by IronMan and French Toast, two of the first thru-hikers of this year. Time flies when you are chatting with thru-hikers, and it wasn't too much longer before SlimeDog and Gauge showed up.

     French Toast, IronMan, Trapper Keeper (Ollalie PCT Angel)

While we were all chatting away on the front porch, Anish just seemed to appear. She has the gift of being super efficient while being personable and social. During her 25 minute stop she refilled her water, grabbed a quick charge for her phone, drank a strawberry lemonade powerade, ate some grapes, an apple, and some other misc snacks, did a quick resupply from the store and our magic bag, and headed back on the trail at what seemed like an amazing pace. I smiled as I watched her leave, she too just seems to be taking it one step at a time. 

Good luck to you Anish on the rest of your hike, I've sent an update forward to another trail angel in Washington. She knows you will be in Washington by this weekend. 

      Anish still looks strong!!

Anish Approaches

For all you potential or actual PCT trail angel types ... 31yr old Anish (Heather Anderson) is attempting to set the 2013 Pacific Crest Trail Fastest Known Time by a female thru-hiker. 

Anish in the Sierras (source: FaceBook)

She started the trail on June 10th, knocked out the 1700 miles thru California in 40 days, and entered Oregon late in the evening of July 18. 

She is doing this attempt as an 'unassisted' or 'self-supported' hiker, which means she will NOT have anyone following, or otherwise meeting her in a prearranged manner to give her support.

She usually puts in more than 40 miles per day, sometimes she'll pull a 50 mile day. When in the high-Sierras, she did Forester Pass 13,200ft, Glen Pass 11,947ft, Pinchot Pass 13,200ft, Mather Pass 12,096ft and Muir Pass 11,973 ft in a two day, 79-mile trek! 

In Oregon the terrain often allows the thru-hikers to put in more miles per day, so she could easily average 45-49 miles per day ... or even more. 

A friend of mine has family in town for a few weeks and they wanted to do some trail magic, so I did some calculations for when Anish could be hiking through the Ollalie Lake area: 

The Oregon border is at mile 1698; the Ollalie Lake trailhead is at mile 2053. It's only 358 miles. 

 • If 40 mpd, Ollalie TH in 9days (Fri 26July)
 • If 45 mpd, Ollalie TH in 8days (Thurs 25July)
 • If 48 mpd, Ollalie TH in 7days (early/mid-day Weds 24July)
 • If 52 mpd, Ollalie TH in 6days (late Tues 23July)


Trail Magic is acceptable as long as it is NOT planned and coordinated. Several hikers on the PCT list serve have reported she could benefit from some high-calorie items such as candy bars, cookies, GU packets, cold non-diet sodas, cold gatorade, etc. She appears to be semi-vegetarian based on posts I've read so I would avoid meat products. She is eating cheese products. 

She keeps a very limited FaceBook blog that is accessible without having an account.  https://m.facebook.com/AnishHikes?refid=17

In my humble opinion she is one serious bad-ass woman! 

Oh yeah, the current speed record holders are Scott Williamson AKA 'Bink' and Adam Bradley AKA 'Krudmeister' who co-hold the current record of 65d, 9h, 58m which was set in 2009.

There are a few other fast hikers approaching our area, the herd appears to be spread between Sierra City (mile 1197) and Burney Falls State Park (mile 1423) with the tail-end of the hikers still making their way north of Yosemite (mile 960).

Central Oregon Coast 'n Dunes

My fella and I did another road-trip along the Oregon Coast, more specifically a camping/scouting trip along the Central Oregon Coast between Waldport and Bandon. 

Trails and beach access in this section of the Oregon coastline are within the endangered Western Snowy Plover nesting area. There are several areas closed to dogs from March 15 - September 15. However, there were still plenty of trails and beaches open to Gauge doggy. 

Since my mobility was limited I spent most of my time on short paved and/or smooth trails, with a few short sessions walking in the sand each day. 

My fella did a few dog beach play times with Gauge doggy and a short out-n-back section of the Oregon Coast Trail between Sunset Bay State Park and Cape Arago while I wandered the Shore Acres State Park formal gardens and viewpoint trails.

Here are a few pictures we took on our trip. 

Oregon Dunes Day Use Area Overlook

Heceta Head Lighthouse

Umpqua River Lighthouse

Gauge 'n my fella found some interesting coastline.

The rock formations along this section of shoreline below Shore Acres State Park are part of the Coaledo Formation created from the collision of the Juan de Fuca and North American tectonic plates more than 45 million years ago. 

The 40-45 degree angles make for some dramatic wave breaking shows, especially during the winter. 

There was no shortage of beautiful cove beaches.

And, no shortage of good seafood. Our favorite place was Miller's on the Cove in Charleston, just south of Reedsport. These tasty baja crab tacos and a beer were $10 before tip! 

Suislaw National Forest has an amazing website with free downloadable topo maps for what appears to be ALL the trails and trailheads within it's boundary. 

If you go during Western Snowy Plover nesting season with a dog, you may find these links helpful. 

Here is the page that lists which trails are restricted during nesting season: 

http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/siuslaw/learning/safety-ethics/?cid=stelprdb5411699

Oregon State Parks has a nice brochure of dog-friendly beaches:

http://www.oregon.gov/oprd/NATRES/docs/plover/DogFriendlyBeaches_web2013.pdf

No Pain, No Gain

I'm really not sure who came up with that saying, but today it was on my mind constantly as I did my longest and most challenging walk yet. It had a combination of paved and dirt trail with a modest elevation gain of 100ft over a little more than a mile and a quarter. It wasn't that I was in serious pain, but it was a noticeable component of my workout so I embraced it and walked on. Such a good feeling!

My neighborhood is on the edge of the Portland Metro Urban Growth Boundary so we have access to miles of paved and dirt trails right outside our front door. We even have a protected natural area with trails and obstacles in the middle of our development. It's perfect for strengthening my ankle. 

For the last two weeks I've been walking Gauge doggy each morning in my walking boot. I absolutely love our morning walks, so getting back to them has been good for my spirits. We have been doing a one mile neighborhood loop each morning, a paved out-n-back trail with a little hill each afternoon, and then sometimes a short neighborhood loop in the evening. 

After five and a half weeks in a walking boot, following the doctor's orders exactly, and resisting temptation to take off the boot when it was driving me nutty ... I graduated to an ankle brace this week.

My awesome GameDay low-profile, lace-up corset style brace comes with criss-cross strapping and velcro action to support the ankle in action.

Over the next two weeks I'll be working on range-of-motion and endurance so I can successfully return to 8hr shifts on July 29, and my regular 12hr shifts on August 12. 

I hope to start working in a few of these dirt trails with Gauge at my side. For now ... Charles has been going along so she can get in a few faster sections and critter hunting. 

Of course no broken bone story is really complete without updated x-rays. 

Two views of the healing bone, it's the one on the left. 

A side view of the break shows how it's still got a small gap, but it's healing! 

Southern Oregon Coast Trail Exploration

My guy and I did a road-trip down the Oregon Coast this week, more specifically a camping/scouting trip along the Southern Oregon Coast. 

Since my mobility is limited, we decided on the first day of exploring I would check out the paved overlooks and walkways, art galleries, and coffee shops in and around Port Orford while my fella and Gauge doggy did a 15-mile section of the Oregon Coast Trail from Floras Lake to the Elk River just north of Port Orford. 

For those not familiar with the Oregon Coast Trail, be advised it is still a work in progress per my fella. He had to do a lot of research to figure out where the trail traversed beach, bluff, forest and/or road. Knowledge of the tide table is essential. 

Dropping the hikers off at Floras Lake

The Gold Bluffs area, south of Floras Lake, north of Blacklock Point

Looking down at the Gold Bluffs

Looking south toward Blacklock Point

Looking south toward Cape Blanco 

Typical trail view ... he followed the trail in the low center down to the beach and eventually across the Sixes River.

My viewpoint from the head of the Sixes River canyon, I did an early scout for the first river crossing.

Often, this is what the beach trail sections looked like.

This section of the Oregon Coast Trail requires dogs be on leash at all times. It is also known for constant winds, see how Gauge's ears and leash are flying?

Having a shuttle driver is helpful on the Oregon Coast Trail as there are times you may wish to backtrack rather than cross a wide river section with a strong undercurrent and deep, hidden sections.  (We found it easy to communicate via text messages. Signal was reliable for Verizon and AT&T.)

This is the Elk River as the tide was just beginning to come in. That is Humbug Mountain in the distance.

On our second day we headed south to the Oregon/California border and then made our way north to check out Oregon State Park wayside, viewpoint, trailhead, campground south of Port Orford. If it had an OSPR sign, we checked it out. These are a few pictures from those stops.

Harris Beach State Park looking south from the lower parking area.

Whaleshead Rock Beach Access Area

Looking south from the Arch Rock paved trail. Spruce Island and Secret Beach on the left. You can hike down to Secret Beach via the Oregon Coast Trail. 

Arch Rock

Natural Bridge Viewpoint also accessible via the Oregon Coast Trail

Windsurfer area north of Pistol River is the first stop on the World Windsurfer Tour. There were several windsurfers cruising along at probably 30mph or more.

What's a trip to the beach without a sunset? 

On our third (and last) day I stayed in camp while my fella and Gauge doggy did the Humbug Mountain loop trail before we headed home to Portland. Sadly my fella reports the viewpoints mentioned in the hiking books and trail brochures are minimal.

Here is the one good view he found.

If you go and plan to hike the Oregon Coast Trail, Blacklock Point and Gold Bluffs areas staying at Cape Blanco State Park is the most convenient. We stayed at Humbug Mountain State Park which is smaller, nicer and more tent friendly than Cape Blanco. IF you want to do some hiking near Indian Sands, Arch Rock, Natural Bridge then staying at Harris Beach State Park is probably most convenient.

If you are into a full day of exploring and hiking (and driving), it is worthwhile to start early and drive south to the California border and head North with stops at all the Oregon State Park viewpoints, overlooks, etc. There were several hike options that take you down to the beach, along forested sections and even a waterfall.

Angels Sometimes Fall

I've been busy reading blogs, watching the herd's progress (most of the hikers I'm following are approaching/leaving Kennedy Meadows), and planning for my first trip only to have to push it all out to early August. 

I'm on the sidelines for at least six weeks, probably thru all of July due to a trail injury last week. After an absolutely awesome ten mile, 2700' gain hike in the Gorge, the trail gave way below my left foot, sending me off the side of the trail, and breaking my right fibula. 

I actually heard the snap as I was falling. As a nurse, my brain went into assess and plan mode. With three other hikers in my group, it made the situation less frightening. My fella pulled me back up to the trail and then headed off with Gauge doggy to fetch the truck to the trailhead, I immediately elevated my leg on my backpack and took something for the pain and inflammation, and then I assessed if I could move my ankle. It moved stiffly and painfully, so I kept my boot on (fully laced to compress my ankle), figured out just how far it was to the trailhead (50yds!), and figured out if I could make it that far. My other two hiking partners helped me stand, gave me a hiking pole, and then took my advice to stand back.

The folks at Multnomah Falls Snack Shack gave my fella ice, I kept my foot elevated and iced in the back seat, and we went directly to Urgent Care. And ... the x-rays showed an oblique nondisplaced fracture of the distal fibula. They set me up with a temporary brace, we picked up some crutches at the pharmacy and I sat around all weekend with my foot elevated until I could see a specialist after the weekend! 

I saw the specialist on Monday, repeat x-rays indicated the fracture was bad (actually three breaks) but it remained nondisplaced so I escaped surgery and will be in a walking boot for six weeks.

I'm hoping to go back to work in six weeks or shortly thereafter, but I'm not sure how long it will be before I'll be doing my long out-n-back 12-14 mile Trail Angel day trips. 

My hope is to be able to do a lot of shorter out-n-back hikes and/or short midweek overnight trips by early August as the herd approaches mid-Oregon. 

Until then I am doing everything I am told to do, not pushing it to much, reading blogs and books. For those who know me ... I don't sit still really well. This will be a long six weeks. 

Just Wasn't Feelin' It

What should have been an awesome day on a section of the PCT just across the river from Cascade Locks . . . felt more like a task to complete than a nice hike along the PCT. I just couldn't get in the mood. At one point I almost asked my hiking partner if we could just blow it all off after a mile and go to lunch.

The ONLY thing making me put one foot in front of the other was pondering the question . . . what really makes a thru-hiker keep going? OK, and I was thinking about what a whiner I was being.

I really didn't have anything to whine about.

We started out on a high note when we ran into the famous PCT Trail Angel Shrek (since 1992!) who was on duty in the toll booth as we crossed the Bridge of the Gods.

We had wonderful weather, partly cloudy skies with a slight breeze, mostly dry trail, and only two other cars in a huge parking lot. AND, I got the latest version of HalfMile's PCT app to work.

Total PCT Miles = 4

At this rate it just might take me 15 years to complete the Oregon and Washington sections of the PCT . . .